Geneva Stop Gear. Click on an image for a larger version. |
So, here is a picture of it (Top) and I will attempt to explain
how it works.
The mainspring is in the barrel with the gear teeth on its top
edge and that powers the watch via the centre wheel pinion, it rotates around the
arbor (axel). One end of the mainspring it attached to the inside of the outer
wall of the barrel and the other end is attached to the arbor. To allow the
spring to be wound, the arbor has a longish extension on the other side that
goes through the face plate and is pinned to one of the winding gears (the left
most gear in the second picture).
The 12 Rotherham 19J Keyless, 1902. |
The segment anticlockwise however is concave as are the next
3 segments and when the watch is wound the “nib” moves anti-clockwise pushing
the Genva gear a little clockwise and after one full circle it will engage in
the next cut out, this cycle can be repeated three more times until the nib
reaches the next convex section of the gear at which point it will be locked in
a similar way to the position shown thus preventing the spring being wound
further.
The arbor is prevented from turning backwards by the “click” or
ratchet operating on the winding gear, bottom left of the pinned winding gear in the second picture.
As the watch runs the barrel rotates around the arbour until
it comes back to the state shown in the picture and the watch will stop. But
during those four revolutions the spring will not have the very weak power from
a fully wound down spring, because of the pre-tension, and will not have the
maximum power of a fully wound up spring because of the four turn limit.
One more method of making a watch more accurate but see also my post Does non-functional geneva gear matter?
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